Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Gardens
Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.
It is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with plump mauve grapes on a rambling garden plot situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city town centre.
"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make wine from several hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments across the city. It is sufficiently underground to have an official name so far, but the group's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.
Urban Vineyards Across the World
To date, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned artistic district area and over 3,000 grapevines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards assist urban areas remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. They protect land from construction by establishing long-term, productive agricultural units inside urban environments," explains the association's president.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a product of the soils the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, environment and history of a urban center," adds the president.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to feast again. "Here we have the mystery Polish grape," he says, as he cleans damaged and mouldy grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Throughout the City
Additional participants of the group are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of the city's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from about fifty vines. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes resting on her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."
Terraced Vineyards and Natural Production
Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "They can't believe they can see grapevine lines in a city street."
Today, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can make intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than £7 a serving in the growing number of establishments specialising in low-processing vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly make good, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an old way of making wine."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the juice," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown yeast."
Difficult Environments and Creative Solutions
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her vines, has gathered his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. However it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make French-style vintages in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole challenge faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on